Current MotoGP championship leader Fabio Quartararo has been hit with a total of 6-second penalty at the GP Catalunya.
The race saw Miguel Oliveira took his first win of the season after a fierce battle against Quartararo before Johann Zarco overtook his fellow Frenchman to finished second.
Quartararo had to settle for third place before Race Direction slapped a 3-second penalty due to a ‘shortcut at Turn 1-2’, thus seeing him losing his place to Ducati’s Jack Miller.
However, after further investigation, Quartararo was hit with another 3-second penalty, this time for finishing the last 3-laps with an open racing suit while also caught throwing away his chest protectors.
The initial penalty dropped the factory Yamaha ride to 4th place while the new penalty demotes the Frenchman to 6th in classification.
The situation now reduces his title lead from 17 to 14 points ahead of Zarco.
Triumph Motorcycles already introduced a wide range of new products for 2021, including the exciting Trident 660 and the newly launched Scrambler.
Now, the Hinckley-based company has officially unveiled the 2021 Speed Twin.
Engine and performance
Powered by the same twin-engine found on the Thruxton R but with a more accessible setup, the 1200cc High Power powerplant now updated to meet Euro 5 standards.
Despite meeting lower emission, the engine now makes 3PS more peak power, resulting to a 100PS @ 7,250rpm and 112Nm @ 4,250rpm.
According to Triumph, the new engine now makes more power in the mid-range and better responsiveness thanks to a 17 per cent reduction in inertia by using a lighter crankshaft and alternator.
Improve handling
The 2021 Speed Twin now comes with upgraded suspension consist of upside/down 43mm Marzocchi front forks matched to an adjustable twin rear suspension with 120mm rear-wheel travel.
The motorcycle also gained better braking with Brembo M50 4-piston radial callipers with 320mm brake disc at the front and Nissin 2-piston with 220mm disc at the rear, including ABS.
Enhanced electronics and technology
Build to enhanced riders experienced; the new Speed Twin now comes with ride-by-wire technology that ensures precise throttle control.
Available with three riding modes; Rain, Road and Sport, the new function allow riders to make necessary adjustments to throttle and traction control settings.
The motorcycle now comes with a full LED light setup and DRL (daytime running light) incorporated into the headlight to create a modern-classic look.
Other exciting features:
digital display with an analogue meter
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
USB charging socket
immobiliser with a transponder (integrated into the Triumph Key)
The 2021 Speed Twin are now available for booking at the price of:
RM77,900.00 – Jet Black Colour
RM78,900.00 – Premium Metallic Colours
According to Fast Bikes Sdn Bhd, the sole distributor of Triumph Motorcycles in Malaysia, those who place their bookings by July 15 are entitled to receive two free lube services and eligible for a 35% discount on accessories.
Customers can also choose from three complementary kits comprising protective and styling components.
Going too fast into a corner happens to every biker.
But you can get away with it.
Practice these steps and you’ll come away with more confidence.
A corner looms ahead. It looks like a fast one, so you line it up and steer in. Only to find that the apex is actually further inside. Much further.
The road seems to double-back on itself and here, you’re in the outside 1/3 of the corner and just tipping the bike in.
What should you do? What can you do?
The fundamentals
There are five basic skills that every biker MUST possess: 1. Steering; 2. Vision; 3. Throttle control; 4. Brake control; 5. Body positioning/control. Not necessarily in that order, but these skills need to be invariably present.
Let’s keep these five points in mind as we take you through a butt-clenching ride.
Don’t panic
This is the most important. Panicking will exacerbate the situation; making it worse when you could actually make it home to your loved ones.
The first thing to happen is your body tenses up when you panic. A tense body will lock your limbs in position and cannot provide effective steering forces anymore.
Look through the corner
The best way to overcome this panic or impending panic is to turn your head into the corner along with your eyes (they must be inclusive). Remember that the bike goes where you look. Force yourself if you have to and flick your head to the side and get those eyes focused on the corner’s exit.
More steering input
Remember how to countersteer. Push on the inside and pull on the outside parts of the handlebar in a quick manner. Doing so will snap the bike over quicker.
Countersteering – Courtesy of sPEEDY pADDY
Control that throttle
Should you shut the throttle? Open the throttle? Hold the throttle steady?
The answer is don’t do anything. If you’ve closed the throttle from the corner entry, keep it closed. If you have it slightly open, keep it there and don’t roll off or open it any further.
Any change to the throttle at this point will cause weight to shift, changing your chassis balance.
If you chop the gas, weight will transfer to the front tyre and force the bike wide. Yes, wide. You’d expect the bike to steer better but the opposite happens as the front tyre’s footprint widens, creating a large patch of resistance. Steering becomes heavy.
Throttle control – Courtesy of dreamtime.com
Conversely, weight transfers to the rear when you add more throttle. The front tyre becomes light as the contact patch becomes smaller. That smaller footprint may not react enough to steering forces. Consequently, the bike goes straight. Yup, just like if you chop the gas.
But if you maintain the present state, the motorcycle’s chassis is in its current state of equilibrium. At least, you know that steering effort is still consistent.
If really need be, you can roll off the gas. Roll off as in turning the throttle down smoothly, NOT chopping it.
Once you’re on your line to the exit, apply throttle to balance the bike and blast out.
Stop treating the throttle as an on/off switch. Instead, use it as a tool to control not only the bike’s speed but its chassis balance and grip levels.
Wee bit or no brake
The first track exercise carried out by all California Superbike School students is the “one gear, no brake” drill. We went out there, set third or fourth gear, then control the throttle as we went into and out of corners.
Yes, it’s about throttle control, but it also showed us about how modern bikes and tyres can perform beyond our expectations and fears. Make that 99% of us.
Now, you’re in too fast and room is running out fast.
If you’re already leaned over, touching the front brake now spells disaster. Conversely, dab on the rear brake. Doing so will 1. Create a resistance behind the bike’s centre of gravity; 2. Flatten the chassis. The bike will tighten its line.
The rear brake technique is used by virtually all MotoGP riders.
In the case that you’re just about to turn in, you can apply the front brake but not by grabbing it like you’re trying to crush a rock. Instead, squeeze it to feel its bite, then smoothly let out the pressure as you lean the bike over. Once you’ve seen the exit and off the brake, apply the throttle.
Conclusion
So, that’s it. It all starts from not panicking but do practice the five skills above as soon as you have the opportunity. I do so everytime I’m on my bike. I’d like to add that these drills don’t have to be carried out at high speeds. In fact, you’ll discover that you learn a lot more when you don’t rush yourself into things.
Kawasaki has just launched the 2021 Ninja 650 for the American market with the Japanese two-wheeler updated the middle-weight sports tourer with updated colours.
The (not so new) Ninja 650 now comes with Pearl Robotic White with Metallica Carbon Grey with a shade of Kawasaki signature Green.
However, the 2021 model retains the 649cc parallel-twin engine that produces 67hp and 65Nm while mated to a 6-speed transmission with a slipper/assist clutch.
Meanwhile, the 2021 Ninja 650 now comes with LED headlights with DRL and a TFT screen with Bluetooth connectivity as standard.
Bikers usually talk about performance and aesthetic upgrades.
But how many actually talk about brakes and brake maintenance?
Today, we look at how often should replace the brake fluid.
It surprises me that in my 33 years of riding, no one had ever asked, “How often should I replace my brake fluid?”
I’ve always been asked what’s the best performance parts such as exhausts and tyres, instead. It’s not wrong to ask about those parts, of course, but brakes are the most critical next to the almost everything else on the bike.
However, I do understand why almost nobody talks about brakes. Modern brake systems are very reliable. Apart from replacing the brake pads whenever they’re worn, the system keeps working: The rider presses the lever and the bike slows down. When the pads are worn again, he replaces them.
In a brake system that performs normally, performance deteriorates slowly and surreptitiously. Consequently, you won’t feel much difference since the last time you rode it. This will continue until we encounter serious problems.
But what about the fluid? Sadly, no one seems to bother. Brakes are working after all. News is, deposits will start to build up in old brake fluid. If you’re unlucky, these deposits may someday flow into the nooks and crannies and block the flow of fluid in the system. In the worst-case scenario, deposits build up or get into the ABS pump and render it useless. When this happens, the part must be replaced, which costs thousands. Believe me, I’ve seen this happen in both bikes and cars.
Old vs new brake fluid
Besides that, brake fluid is hydroscopic i.e. attracts moisture. The system may be sealed but wear and tear can eat away at a gasket or two. The presence of moisture in will lower the brake fluid’s boiling point. When this happens, the brake takes more effort to work. In a bad scenario, the brake lever will feel spongy. In the worst case, the lever has been pulled all the way back and sticking to the handlebar, yet the bike doesn’t slow down at all.
So, how often do you need to change your brake fluid? Every two years, regardless if the fluid “still looks good.” The job is easy enough that you could DIY (do-it-yourself), but you can also visit a workshop if you aren’t confident or need more tools.
What DOT should I use? Just follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. For example, use DOT 4 if that’s recommended. Try not to be seduced by the mechanic’s “Ini barang baik punya (This stuff is good)” sales pitch, especially if the fluid is of different DOT rating or for racing. Racing brake fluids are usually even more hydroscopic!
The OEM rubber brakes hoses typically need to be replaced every four years.
You can choose to replace them with braided steel lines.
Steel lines are more durable.
As we mentioned previously in other articles about brakes, brake hoses are considered consumables, that is, they need to be replaced some time down the road. The question then is to whether replace them with OEM rubber hoses or braided steel lines?
Before we go further, let us explain that most top-of-the-line motorcycle models are already equipped with braided steel hoses, especially sportbikes. As for those in other segments, there are manufacturers who include them as OEM from the factory, while those of the lower categories may not.
So, let’s assume that your bike is fitted with rubber hoses. Rubber brake hoses need to be replaced every four to six years, depending on your manufacturer’s recommendations.
OEM rubber hoses deteriorate over time
Cutaway of a rubber hose (left) vs a braided steel line. See how much simpler is the steel line’s construction – Photo credit crowz.narmir.com
Over time, the rubber becomes soft and will expand when subjected to the high stresses of the brake system. Consequently, you lose braking power. In other words, some of the brake fluid’s pressure’s lost in pushing brake hose outwards, instead of being concentrated on the caliper(s) pistons.
The lever will feel spongy and you lose feel of how much you can taper off the pressure on the lever. This is especially irritating when you need to trail brake into corners – the brake seems to just let go. When that happens, the forks will rebound abruptly therefore shifting the bike’s weight to the back. This will cause the bike to run wide or even overshoot the corner.
What’s the difference between rubber hoses and steel braided lines?
Picture courtesy of Venhill
In a steel braided line, a steel casing surrounds the core hose inside, made of either nylon or Teflon. A PVC protective layer covers the steel line. It’s best to choose the PTFE Teflon core as it can resist much higher temperatures generated during braking.
The steel casing keeps the inner hose from expanding when the brake is applied. As a result, you have a better feel of how much braking you can apply, rather than relying on just the feel of the bike’s speed alone. This is especially helpful when you need to trail brake or letting off some pressure to enable you to steer the bike.
What you shouldn’t expect after switching to steel braided lines
Don’t expect your bike to brake like Marquez’s bike for Turn 9 at the Sepang International Circuit. Braided lines give you better feel and return some of your brake’s power, but you won’t get eye-popping braking all of a sudden.
What to look out for
If you end up getting a steel line with a smaller inner diameter compared to your OEM hoses, do expect that the brake lever will require slightly more travel. This is due to the increase of pressure in the line due to the smaller orifice, as stated in Bernoulli’s Principle. As such, the brake master pump’s cylinder needs to travel a little further.
But more critically, do look for quality steel lines rather than some el cheapo ones. Never compromise on quality when it comes to brakes. Besides, good braided steel lines could last for a long time.
