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So, the motorcycling world has been shifting towards dual-purpose/adventure and sport-touring motorcycles for many seasons now. Say ‘dual-purpose’ and people usually think about those 1000cc and above behemoths such as the GS, Africa Twin, Super Adventure, V-Strom 1050… But, there is a demand for lightweight adventure bikes, as well, hence the 250cc dual-purpose/adventure market is fought over teeth and nails by manufacturers. And this is where the 2024 Suzuki V-Strom 250SX fits in.

The smallest of the V-Strom family is not new, by the way, and it was in fact one of the very first 250cc adventure bikes, known as the DL250 since 2017. However, the updated bike, now wearing the ‘V-Strom’ family name has just arrived in Malaysia.

Features

As with its peers in this segment, it is a simple bike.

  • The engine is a 248cc, single-cylinder, SOHC, oil-cooled unit which produces 26hp at 9,300 RPM and 22.2Nm at 7,300 RPM. Before we forget, the bike is a certified EEV – Energy Efficient Vehicle.

  • That power is sent through a six-speed transmission. There is no assist and slipper clutch.
  • The engine is housed in a tubular steel frame, to which the front telescopic forks and rear monoshock are also mounted.

  • Brakes are discs front and rear, with ABS as standard.
  • Steering angle is a relaxed 27º, seat height is 835mm, and kerb weight is 167kg.

  • Lighting is LED all-around, the instrument panel consists of an LCD screen, and there is a USB charging port at the side of the instrument “tower.”
  • Speaking of the tower, the windscreen occupies a high position and is unadjustable.

  • There are several adventure bike features such as hand protectors and a small sump guard.

And that is all, folks.

Riding the 2024 Suzuki V-Strom 250SX

The seat heigh of 835mm is not low but it is not the highest among its rivals, either. Suzuki did a great job of slimming the area where the seat meets the tank, allowing the rider to place a foot on the ground easily. Anyway, just an advice from us, which we learned from Chris Birch, “The biggest mistake among new adventure bike riders is trying to place both feet on the ground at the same time. Putting one foot down is more secure.

Having ridden other 250cc adventure bikes before, we kind of expected the engine’s torque to be further up the rev range. Instead, the Suzuki pulled away briskly when the clutch was released.

It turned out to be a good thing because it made short work of riding through heavy traffic. We took the bike off-road and that low-down torque made the bike easy to manage, too. All we needed to do was open the throttle slightly and modulate the clutch. Easy.

While it makes a “mere” 26hp, we found that it was more than sufficient while cruising at 120-130km/h on highways. If you are looking for high top speeds from this bike, you are missing the point.

Road handling is good, just like other Suzukis, but the bike turned in a little slower, before plopping on its side. We attributed that to the MRF tyres. These tyres offer some good grip on dry roads and light off-road trails, but they are super slippery in the wet. The first to go was the front as it tries to slide underneath. So, to overcome this, we pushed the bike down on wet roads and leaned to the inside when it was dry.

But the true revelation of the Suzuki V-Strom 250SX is the suspension. It was supple yet held its own when hitting bumps and potholes. In fact, we had to confirm it by purposely riding over bumpy roads and through potholes. We even jumped over speed bumps. Sorry, Suzuki Malaysia.

Mated to superbly padded seats and you have a bike that made riding around in KL an easy and comfortable affair. Riding it felt like a bigger bike but with lower weight and easier handling.

The icing on the cake was the fuel frugal engine. We averaged 31km/litre consistently despite riding the bike between 110-130km/h.

Build quality

The bike’s build quality was superb: Flush fitting panels, even paint, and there was no wayward cables and wires when you took down past the top triple clamp. Even the undersides of luggage rack was smooth to the touch.

Pricing

It is actually hard to believe that the 2024 Suzuki V-Strom 250SX is priced at only RM17,800, while all its rivals are above RM20,000. You get a lot of value given its quality, engine, suspension, comfort, and looks.

Conclusion

Truth is, if you want an user-friendly beginning adventure bike, or a lightweight adventure bike for the daily commute, this is it. Beginners can use the V-Strom 250SX to learn the intricacies of off-road riding, while veteran riders can look forward to a jump they can jump on and ride away.

In closing, it is a great buy. Just make ours in Champion Yellow No. 2.

Photo gallery

Yamaha announced several months ago that they will be trying out a new V4 engine in MotoGP next year. It is the first time that the manufacturer will be fielding the configuration since MotoGP first signalled the start of four-stroke engines in 2002. However, it is not the first Yamaha V4 Grand Prix engine.

Just like what is happening now since Fabio Quartararo’s rider’s title in 2021, Yamaha’s GP efforts had lost their way in the early 1980s. The maker had won three world 500cc titles on the trot in 1978, 1979, and 1980 with ‘King’ Kenny Roberts onboard the Yamaha YZR500 OW48 inline-four two-stroke machine, but  Suzuki had been close especially in 1980 with their rotary valved square four RG500.

1980 Yamaha YZR500 OW48

So, Yamaha built their own rotary valved square four engine for the 1981 season, dubbed the OW60. But Suzuki improved their bike further and caused Roberts to finish third overall behind Suzuki riders Marco Lucchinelli and Randy Mamola.

Yamaha YZR500 OW60

Yamaha decided to take another route for 1982, this time with the OW61 V4. However, Roberts found it difficult to ride and he dropped to fifth in the championship. Legend has it that the OW61 was so bad that Yamaha’s race chief Mike Maekawa personally dumped the bikes into the crusher at the end of the season.

Yamaha YZR500 OW61

The factory introduced an improved OW70 V4 for 1983 and Roberts so nearly won his fourth title that year, only to lose by a mere 2 points to Freddie Spencer on the sweeter handling Honda NS500 V3.

“The Yamaha OW70 was the first GP bike to utilise Öhlins suspension.”

1983 Yamaha YZR500 OW70

Frustrated, Roberts decided to retire but it was too soon because in 1984, Eddie Lawson was crowned champion on the new OW76, becoming the first V4 champion. Lawson would repeat the feat in 1986 and 1988.

1984 Yamaha YZR500 OW76

Thus it became apparent to other makers that the V4 configuration is the best bet for power and chassis performance. Honda, Suzuki, Cagiva soon built their own V4 machines. This continued until the 500cc two-strokes were replaced by 990cc four-strokes in 2002.

Hence, if Roberts’ era was the war between Yamaha and Suzuki, Lawson’s era started the epic Honda vs. Yamaha war in 500cc GP. Freddie Spencer (Honda – 1985), Lawson (Yamaha – 1986, 1988, Honda – 1989), Wayne Gardner (Honda – 1987).

Come 1990, it was another American rider who would go on to be a GP legend on the Yamaha V4 GP bike: Wayne Rainey. He would win the title in 1990, 1991, and 1992 while battling his Suzuki arch rival, Kevin Schwantz on the Suzuki.

Rainey was on his way to his fourth consecutive title in 1993 but a crash at Misano caused him to be paralysed from the chest down.

and 1993

Schwantz would take his only 500cc GP title that year.

“1993 was also the end of the Yamaha V4’s winning streak and they would not win another 500cc two-stroke title.”

The subsequent years from 1994 to 2001 saw Honda’s dominance of the championship with Mick Doohan (1994-1998), Alex Criville (1999), Valentino Rossi (who won 11 races in 2001). The only year when a Honda rider did not win the championship was in 2000 when Kenny Roberts, Jr. won on a Suzuki ).

Mick Doohan in 1994

“Yamaha’s next championship title would only materialise in 2004 when Valentino Rossi switched over from Honda.”

However, Yamaha had gone the inline-four route in MotoGP since the beginning in 2002, perhaps because they worked off the YZF-R1’s engine as the base. The R1 ruled the 1000cc superbike sales during the time, anyway, so Yamaha may have wanted to tie in the R1 to the YZR-M1 racebike.

They are the last manufacturer to switch to a V4 in MotoGP after Suzuki left the championship, amongst their rivals Ducati, Aprilia, KTM, and Honda who run V4 bikes. In any case, Yamaha has said that the performance of new V4 engine will be compared against the inline-four, and will only complete the changeover should the new engine perform better.

Let us see if the new engine will debut in the Winter Tests.

Michelin Malaysia expanded its motorcycle tyre line-up with the introduction of the Power 6 earlier this year. The Power 6 is the successor to the Power 5 and in terms of line-up, it sits above Michelin’s Road 6 sports touring tyre, and just below the Power GP2.

The Power 6 has been developed using knowledge derived from MotoGP. It utilises a new carcass construction as well as silica rubber that maximises long-term durability and grip in all conditions.

As for the compound of the tyre, the Power 6 is made of dual compound material – soft on the outside and hard in the middle. This is said to improve cornering grip while also improving long durability.

The Power 6 is a road tyre and hence a lot of its construction material is focused on that. According to Michelin, the Power 6 is designed for 10% track use and 90% road use. But despite that, some reviews suggest that the new tyre does pretty well on track as well.

What bikes is it suitable for?

When Michelin Malaysia introduced the tyre back in April, the company said the tyre is suitable for bikes above 600cc. However, according to the official press release on the company’s global media site, the Power 6 is suitable for motorcycles over 300cc, and has already been homologated on the 2024 KTM 390 Duke.

What is it like?
Michelin Malaysia handed us a pair for review about two months ago. We fitted it onto a Aprilia Shiver belonging to a member of our team.

The 10 year bike previously ran on Michelin Power GT at the rear and a Power Cup 2 on the front. According to owner Raimi, this set up gave him the confidence to attack corners.

Raimi is not exactly a power rider in the usual sense, he rides about 200km per weekend and describes himself as a leisure rider.

After two months and 2000km of corner carving fun, and having ridden the bike in fair and rainy weather, Raimi came back with a glowing report.

He said that it has good wet weather grip, and it performs in the wet just as Michelin describes it. He was initially concerned that the hard compound of the mid-section may result in some squirms or slides, but there was none of that.

In the dry, he said the bike feels more ‘flickable’, with sharper cornering characteristics and more predictable grip than his previous tyre choice.

However, he mentions that some tend to mistake the tyre for the Road 6, so Michelin’s idea of having the Power 6 branding embosses onto the tyre was a good idea.

Raimi gave the tyre 5 stars and loves the fact that despite riding 2000km on the tyre, it still looks new.

The Michelin Power 6 is available in Malaysia from RM1,020 to RM2,000 depending on the size of the tyre.

The Bata brand of footwear is a global phenomenon. It is so well engrained in the lives of so many in so many countries for so long that the population of almost any of those countries thought that Bata is a local brand. For example, Malaysians think it originated from Malaysia, Indonesians think that it began in Indonesia (as they do with everything, anyway), even some countries in Africa think the same, too. But did you know there were Bata tyres, too?

Yup, that picture above was taken in 1932. The gentleman on the left was Dr. Ferdinand Porsche and the driver was Hans Stuck, in an Auto Union race car. Auto Union was what became Audi later.

History of Bata

The Bata Corporation (Baťa in the Czech Republic and Slovakia) is a multinational footwear, apparel, and fashion accessories manufacturer and retailer of Moravian (Czech) origin, headquartered in Lausanne, Switzerland.

The corporation is one of the world’s leading shoemakers by volume with 150 million pairs of shoes sold annually. It has a retail presence of over 5,300 shops in more than 70 countries across five continents and 21 production facilities in 18 countries. Bata is an employer to over 32,000 people globally.

A family-owned business for over 125 years, the company is organized into three business units: Bata, Bata Industrials (safety shoes) and AW Lab (sports style). Bata is a portfolio company with more than 20 brands and labels, such as Bata, North Star, Power, Bubblegummers, sprint, Weinbrenner, Sandak, and Toughees.

The T. & A. Baťa Shoe Company was founded on 21 September 1894 in the Moravian town of Zlín, Austria-Hungary (today in the Czech Republic), by three siblings: Tomáš Baťa, his brother Antonín, and his sister Anna. The Baťa family had been cobblers for generations. The company employed 10 full-time employees with a fixed work schedule and a regular weekly wage.

But Tomáš ran into financial difficulties almost as soon as the company was set up. So he decided to sew shoes from canvas instead of leather, which becme extremely popular. The company soon grew to 50 employees.

Tomáš was also active in seeking out new manufacturing techniques a-nd kept modernising his factory for mss production. By 1912, Baťa was employing 1500 full-time workers, plus another several hundred who worked out of their homes in neighbouring villages.

World War I

The company fortunately  continued to do well when World War I broke out in 1914, as they secured orders from the military. In fact, Bata’s employees increased 10 times between 1914 and 1918.

However, the Austro-Hungarian Empire was broken up after the war, giving birth Czechoslovakia (and the Balkan states). The new country’s currency was devalued by 75%, demand for products dropped, production was cut back, and unemployment was at an all-time high. Tomáš Baťa responded to the crisis by cutting the price of Bata shoes in half. The company’s workers agreed to a temporary 40 percent reduction in wages; in turn, Baťa provided food, clothing, and other necessities at half-price. He also introduced one of the first profit-sharing initiatives, transforming all employees into associates with a shared interest in the company’s success (today’s equivalent of performance-based incentives and stock options).

Baťa also began to build towns and factories outside of Czechoslovakia and to diversify into such industries as tanning (1915), energy (1917), agriculture (1917), forestry (1918), newspaper publishing (1918), brick manufacturing (1918), wood processing (1919), rubber (1923), construction (1924), railway and air transport (1924), book publishing (1926), the film industry (1927), food processing (1927), chemical production (1928), tyre manufacturing (1930), insurance (1930), textile production (1931), motor transport (1932), sea transport (1932), and coal mining (1932), airplane manufacturing (1934), synthetic fibre production (1935), and river transport (1938). In 1923 the company boasted 112 branches.

But we are here to talk about Bata tyres, so let us carry on from there.

Bata tyres

In the 1930’s, tyres in Czechoslovakia were either overpriced imports or local high quality tyres. The high cost of transporting goods caused by the price of foreign tyres prompted Tomáš Bat’a to set up his own tyre factories.

In 1932, the first Bata tyres were used on the journey from Zlín to Luhačovice. The demand for Bata tyres grew rapidly, so Tomáš Bata built new factories and expanded production both in terms of the number of units and the breadth of the product range, displacing competing tyres from Czechoslovakia.

Unfortunately, 1932 was also the year when Tomáš Bat’a died after his airplane crashed during takeoff.

Then, in 1939, World War II broke out.

After The Great War

The Bata company’s assets in Czechoslovakia, East Germany, Poland and Yugoslavia were confiscated and nationalised.

In 1945, the decision was taken that Bata Development Limited in Great Britain would become the service headquarters of the Bata Shoe Organisation. Now based in the West, Thomas J. Bata, along with many Czechoslovakian expatriates, began to rebuild the business.

Back in Czechoslovakia, the three largest tyre manufacturers agreed to merge and create a single brand. The three were Bata, Rubena, and Mitas, therefore birthing the brand Barum.

Barum continues to operate through the communist regime’s rule until 1992 when they signed a contract with Continental. Barum Continental became the second largest joint venture in the Czech Republic when they began operating on 1 March 1993.

As for the Bata, they continued to produce shoes the world over, and leaving the tyre business altogether.

KTM, GasGas, Husqvarna’s parent company, Pierer Mobility is now looking for a cash infusion. Things have gotten much more dire than expected, especially for the KTM brand.

The once proud Austrian manufacturer has since laid off jobs, fired four directors (one of them the grandson of KTM’s three founders), and restructuring the production. But nothing seems to work.

Just weeks after releasing their Q3 2024 financial report, Pierer Mobility released an “ad hoc announcement” saying, “The Executive Board is currently working on securing the financing of KTM AG, in particular on a bridge financing in the three-digit million range.” KTM is responsible for 95% of the group’s revenue but has seen a precipitous drop in sales. Adding to the hardship was Pierer Mobility’s acquisition of a controlling stake in MV Agusta and needing much resources to restructure it.

Another part of the statement says, “To this end, discussions are ongoing both with the core shareholder Pierer Bajaj AG and with existing financial creditors. The aim is to agree a standstill agreement with the financial creditors involved for the duration of these discussions as basis for the financial restructuring.

Is Pierer Mobility looking to sell a controlling stake to or a further merger with Bajaj? Bajaj and Pierer had been working together for many years, producing the smaller range of bikes of 125cc, 200cc, 250cc, and 390cc. The 390 platform is the best-seller the world over. Bajaj is one of the world’s biggest motorcycle makers hence has huge resources, so who knows.

It is well known that some F1 drivers also ride motorcycles.

Motorcycle riders can agree that motorcycles offer the most visceral enjoyment. There is no roof and huge windscreen to block the wind, the controls that require the entire body’s muscles. The most powerful street motorcycles may have “only” 200+hp compared to some supercars that sport 1000+hp, but the motorcycle accelerates harder and faster. And that feeling of dragging a knee through a corner… ah heaven.

Lewis Hamilton

Seven-time F1 World Champion Lewis Hamilton is visibly passionate about riding motorcycles, both on the road and track. The peak of this was swapping rides with Valentino Rossi (in Hamilton’s F1 car) at the Ricardo Tormo Circuit.

The Briton even has motorcycles dedicated to him, namely the MV Agusta F4 and Brutale LH44.

Now and again the MV is paraded in front of the world’s press as Hamilton takes the short commute to ‘work’ at the Monaco Grand Prix from his nearby home.

Fernando Alonso

Fernando Alonso tested Marc Marquez’s Honda RC213V MotoGP at the Motegi Ciruit bike in 2015.

Since then, after parting ways with the Honda days now way behind him, Alonso returned to F1 with the Alpine team part-managed by ex-Suzuki MotoGP boss Davide Brivio. The driver purchased an Aprilia RS 660 to get around.

Sebastian Vettel

The four-time World Champion prefers classic motorcycles. Although he keeps his collection away from public eyes, he had been spotted on a Kawasaki two-stroke triple in the past and a Suzuki GS550.  There are also rumours that he regularly visits classic motorcycle shows. He has also been see several of KTM and BMW motorcycles.

The German says he loved motorcycles after buying a Cagiva Mito 125.

Charles Leclerc

Charles Leclerc’s Husqvarna 701 Vitpilen is a one-off special created by French custom house Bad Winners. The ‘Apex 2.0’ used a Vitpilen 701 as the base, and spec’ed it up with a unique frame and bodywork, a full system exhaust, and gorgeous looking DYMAG carbon fibre wheels. And oh, a KTM headlight.

Max Verstappen

Max Verstappen had been spotted riding motorcycles in his native Netherlands.

Like Leclerc, the current F1 World Championship leader has commissioned his own custom, but prefers a cruiser in the shape of a Montois-custom Harley-Davidson.

Kimi Raikkonen

The “King of One Liners” in F1 loves his motorcycles and owns a large collection of motorcycles in his native Finland.

However, his passion is primarily for ‘Choppers’ and Harley-style cruisers and even has a series of special customs made under his ‘Iceman’ nickname.

Having retired from F1 at the end of the 2021 season having started more grands prix than any other before him, Raikkonen spent approximately five minutes with his feet up before taking everyone by surprise by being announced as the new team manager for the factory Kawasaki team in MX1.

Nico Rosberg 

Being an outspoken environmentalist, Rosberg has popped up now and again touting the advancements made in automotive technology and electric transport. That laid the way to collaborating with Italian manufacturer Energica. Rosberg was hired to launch the company’s latest generation Ego sportsbike in 2019.

Michael Schumacher

Unlike others in this list, seven-time F1 World Champion Michael Schumacher not only loved motorcycles, but he even raced them. It led to him bringing his megastar status to the comparatively modest German IDM Superbike Championship in 2008 aboard the factory Holzhauer Honda.

He wasn’t a front runner on a bike that his team-mate Martin Bauer was winning the title, but he didn’t disgrace himself either. Alas, a heavy crash led to a shoulder injury that not only ended his motorcycling aspirations but ruled him out of a planned return to F1 with Ferrari to replace the injured Felipe Massa.

Ayrton Senna

The Brazilian won devoted fans around the world for his passion for anything fast, including motorcycles.

He particularly loved Ducatis and would often arrive in the Monaco Grand Prix paddock riding a Ducati Monster. The Italian firm later created the Ducati 916 Senna.

Alas, the man himself never got to experience his dedication, being launched the year following his tragic and untimely death during the 1994 San Marino Grand Prix.

One of the most irritating (and dangerous) thing to pick up a tyre puncture. Good news is, plugging a tubeless tyre puncture is rather straightforward as you do not have to remove the tyre, unless the hole is too large to plug. On the other hand, a tube tyre requires you remove the tyre from the rim.

What we need

Firstly, you need an Oxford Tyre Repair Kit. The kit is complete with:

  • 1 x Connector complete with valve.
  • 1 X Cutter.
  • 5 x Sealing strips, also known as rope strips (also colloquially known as “cacing” in Malaysia).
  • 1 x Plug insert tool.
  • 1 x Hole routing tool.
  • 1 x Tube of glue.
  • 3 x CO2 canisters (avoiding the need for an air pump).

Secondly, you need the Oxford Tool Kit Pro. The set includes further pieces of tools including pliers to pull the thing that punctured the tyre. You may also consider the Oxford Tool Kit.

Plugging the puncture

Usually, the hole is easy to find as there is still a nail, screw or some object embedded in it.

1. Rotate the tyre and check for other signs of puncture.

2. Pull offending item out with the pliers.

3. Pick up the corkscrew-like tool and ream in and out of the hole to rough it up a bit.

4. Apply the cement into and around hole. The cement is to hold the rope plug (also called ‘cacing‘ colloquially in Malaysia) in place.

5. Insert the sticky rope plug through the eyelet of the needle.

6. Push the needle with the rope plug through the hole and pull the needle back out quickly.

7. Cut off the excess rope plug, leaving just a little higher than the tyre’s surface.

8. Place the metal part of the valve adapter on the tyre valve.

9. Push in a CO² canister into the red end of the adapter.

10. Check again to see if air is escaping from the repaired hole, by sprinkling some water on it or spitting on it.

11. You can ride away if there’s no further leak, or you may need to insert another plug if there is.

After plugging

You can ride away after inflating the tyre with the CO² canisters. Ride slowly, not over 80 km/h for 15 minutes to let the plug settle in.

However, the tyre pressure may not be correct after doing so, thus the first thing you should do is head to a petrol station or workshop to reinflate the tyre, whichever comes first.

Also do visit a motorcycle workshop to have the tyre removed and patched from the inside, as the rope plug is NOT a permanent fix. After that, remember that the tyre’s top speed is reduced by one level i.e. Z => V.

The best solution is to replace the punctured tyre completely, as its structure has been compromised.

The biggest milestone in motorcycle safety is the one which protects your head. It was in 1963 when the first ever full-face motorcycle helmet called the Bell Star, was designed and developed in the by Bell Helmets.

Motorcyclists (as well as drag, car and boat racers) were faced with limited choice in safety headgear. back then. There were only either three-quarter open-faced or half-helmets. Some car and bike racers wore so-called “helmets” made from leather or cork. Deaths due to severe head trauma were common.

According to Bell, it was motorcyclists that pushed for a better helmet design. Bell engineers finally came up with the first full-face motorcycle helmet called the Bell Star.

The rigid outer shell was constructed from stain weave fibreglass cloth, which was used in the aircraft industry. The direction of the weave was crucial to ensure maximum strength across the helmet’s surface and it was bonded with a high-impact polyester resin that was then coated with a scuff-resistant epoxy coating. Inside there was a conventional EPS liner, not that dissimilar to type you find on today’s helmets. In the 1960s Bell made a point of marketing the fact that the liners used in all of its crash helmets were made from the same material used by the U.S. military in its HGU 2/P flight helmet and by NASA astronaut helmets.

The Santa Cruz-based company began selling the Bell Star in February 1963 and described the helmet in its catalogue as being revolutionary, with maximum face protection, better visibility and breathing for the wearer than a conventional helmet.

But of course, being the first full-face helmet, it did not have the features of modern helmets. Firstly, there is no flip up visor. Instead, it was a shatterproof plastic lens that had to be popped out of its rubber mouldings. The eyeport was also rather small vertically, more like how auto racing helmets would have. And there were no openings for airflow.

Still, it was a good beginning. The Bell Star met the crash criteria set up by the Snell Foundation independent safety organisation. The requirement simulated crash tests to see if the helmet could withstand serious damage to the helmet or the wearer’s head. The impact test involved holding up to a 162.7 Nm impact, or the equivalent of a 7.3 kg (16 lb.) weight traveling at 25.7 km/h (16 mph) and hitting the helmet.

The Bell Star sold at USD59.50, and was the most expensive in Bell’s helmet line-up. It quickly found a big following among motorcycle enthusiasts, including racers, as well many of the world’s leading race car drivers.

Today’s crash helmet technologies are light years away from the 1963 Bell Star in terms of design, construction, materials, and features. But every single one can trace its heritage back to the iconic Bell Star.

Ride a motorcycle and hang around with other motorcyclists long enough and you will start to hear all sorts of myths. These myths involve every aspect of riding from riding techniques to components to maintenance. Today, we will look at the 10 most common and alarming tyre myths.

Tyres have come a long way since the invention of pneumatic tyres. Unfortunately, myths started to appear along the way as there is more and more misunderstanding when it comes to the technology and science of modern tyres.

1. “Racing compound tyres faster, safer.”

First and foremost, not all products meant for racing are suitable for everyday street use. For example, racing brake fluid is totally unsuitable for road use as it is super hydrophilic.

Back to tyres, there are reasons why there are different types of tyres for different purposes. Each type is designed to accommodate variables such as grip, longevity, weather, heat cycles, comfort and feel, warm-up times, etc.

That said, leave the racing slicks for the track and stick to sport/track, sport, sport-touring, road/adventure tyres for the road.

2. “Ride aggressively to break in new tyres.”

While it is true that tyre makers have stopped using mould release agent during the manufacturing process, a new tyre still needs to be broken in. Heat generated from riding further homogenises the different compounds in the tyre’s compound (because it is made up of many different materials hence the word), while friction with the road scuffs away the smooth surface of the tread.

As such, riding too aggressively on new tyres will cause the compounds to not break in correctly, and will usually result in a bad tyre by the time you get their midlife. So take it easy for at least the first 300km.

3. “Breaking in new tyres is faster with lower inflation pressure.”

Best to stick with the recommended tyre pressure. Running a tyre with lower inflation pressure will generate too much heat too quickly and can result in overcooking the elements in the compound and destroying the tyre in the process. Also, running lower pressures on the road may cause bump damage to the tyre and rim, apart from higher rolling resistance, more steering effort, and increased fuel consumption.

4. “Traction is due the tread compound.”

It is true that traction is the result of friction between the tyre’s tread and road surface, thus a softer compound offers more traction. However, there are also other complex mechanics at play that influence a tyre’s grip performance.

The construction of the tyre’s carcass and sidewalls also play a large factor in traction. More malleable carcass and sidewalls allow the tyre to absorb bumps and conform to irregularities of the road surface, enhancing traction. Conversely, a harder tyre will bounce over road irregularities, thus compromising grip.

5. “Lower/higher inflation pressure is better for traction.”

There are road riders who intentionally overinflate their tyres (by way too much!) because they want to “feel the tyres.” On the other hand, there are riders who lower the inflation pressure by too much to promote grip.

Truth is, the biggest issue here is due to incorrect riding techniques. Sticking to the recommended pressure is the best way, although you may increase or decrease the pressure slightly to cater for bodyweight, passenger, cargo, tyre construction, and such, but not by a whopping 30-100 kPa!

6. “Sport-touring tyres are for slow riders”

The question here is slow in what sense? On the road? On the track? For the daily commute? In good weather? Under heavy rain?

Of course, one should not use sport-touring tyres for racing, but there are sport-touring tyres that can be used on the track for high paced riding, just not for all-out racing. Truth is, there are current sport-touring tyres can outpace sport-oriented tyres of just two generations ago on the track! Sure, sport tyres are grippier, but sport-touring tyres are by no means inferior especially when the road conditions get gnarly, and in the rain.

7. “You can just leave a ‘cacing’ in place.”

Using the rope repair (‘cacing’ in Malaysia) is a temporary fix for a puncture, intended to get the rider to the nearest workshop. Leaving the rope in place will cause the hole to grow bigger over time. Instead, the puncture should be repaired with the proper tyre plug as soon as possible. However, remember that a punctured and subsequently repaired tyre has its speed rating dropped by one level.

8. “Old tyres are bad.”

There is no “used by” date on any tyre. Why? Because there is no true expiry date. The condition of a new tyre depends more on how the workshop stores it. Improper storage such as leaving the tyre on a concrete floor and stacked to the ceiling, in a hot and humid environment will cause the tyre’s compound to oxidise faster. Conversely, an older tyre which was stored properly (stood up, rotated once a while, in a climate controlled area) will still be in great shape.

9. “No need to follow the tyre’s intended direction of rotation.”

No, you should not. Tyre manufacturers designed and constructed a tyre with a certain rotational direction to optimise their performance. Mounting it backwards can lead to dire consequences. There are bidirectional tyres in the market, but the majority of road tyres are unidirectional.

10. “Mixing tyre type/brand is okay.”

Different tyres have different properties and performance envelopes. As such, they are designed to work in pairs. Combining different tyres will compromise the bike’s handling characteristics and even safety. And no, it is not a conspiracy to sell more tyres!

Yamaha made big waves back in 2009 when they introduced the YZF-R1 of that year with a “crossplane engine.” It is also known as the CP4 in short for “crossplane four cylinder.” Yes, it has been 15 years already, yet there still exists some confusion on what it actually means.

Not helping to clear the air is Yamaha calling their parallel-twin CP2 (MT-07, Tenere 700, and YZF-R7) and their triple CP3 (MT-09, Tracer/Tracer GT, YZF-R9).

So, let us take a closer look as to what a “crossplane engine” actually means.

Let us start with the “flat plane” engine

The “plane” in the word alludes to the crankshaft’s throws i.e. how the crankpins are arranged. Crankpins are the cylindrical extrusions on a crankshaft where big end of a connecting rod (conrod) is mounted. On the top of this conrod is a smaller end where a piston is attached via a wrist pin. As such, combustion pressure pushes down on the crown (top) of the piston, forcing the piston down. This motion is carried by conrod to push the crankshaft, making the later go around. The rotation of the crankshaft is what gives the engine its torque and power.

Traditionally, inline-four engines have their crankpins arranged in 180° intervals between them. In other words, piston one is up, the piston two is down, the following piston three is also down, and finally the last piston four is up. Seen from one end of the crankshaft, all the crankpins appear one a single plane (axis), hence the engine is known as a “flat plane.”

In accordance to this, the engine’s firing order (the order which a spark is introduced to ignite the fuel/air mixture) is every 180° of crank rotation i.e. 720°/4 cylinders = 180°. Why 720°? That is because a four-stroke engine requires two crankshaft rotations (720°) to complete the four strokes i.e. intake, compression, combustion, exhaust.

To illustrate this: Cylinder one fires, the crank turns 180°, cylinder three fires, the crank turns another 180°, cylinder four fires, and finally, cylinder two fires after another 180°. This is called an even firing order since it is 180°-180°-180°-180°.

With this crankshaft structure all 4 pistons generate the secondary force in the same direction at the same time. 2 pistons move from TDC towards 90° and 2 other pistons move from BDC to 270°. It results in accumulating all the forces, because all forces are directed in one and the same direction. This is the total secondary force of this 180°crankshaft structure.

In other words, the inline-four engine has a lot of vibration but it only feels smooth because the shakes are quelled by a counterbalancer shaft.

Now the “crossplane engine”

The first crossplane crankshat/engine was actually first proposed in 1915, before Cadillac introduced the first crossplane V8 in 1923. V8 engines used flat-plane cranks prior to that.

Now, since we have illustrated the flat-plane crank, the crossplane crank has its crankpins offset by 90°. This means, while crankpin one fully up, crankpin two is 90° away. The last crankpin is 180° from crankpin one, thus crankpin three is 90° away from crankpin four.

This arrangement would give the engine a 90°-90°-90°-90° firing order but(!) it results in a very wild power delivery like the traditional 500cc two-stroke (albeit V4) GP bikes. Mick Doohan called this the “Screamer” engine.

So, to quell that kind of character, the Big Bang firing order was introduced in the 1990 Honda NSR500, which crowded all the four cylinders’ firing order closer together, while leaving the crankshaft to turn the rest of the way without power pulses.

This is especially useful for high-powered motorcycles, because power pulses will disrupt the tyre’s grip. Each power pulse “kicks” the tyre and if the rear tyre starts to lose grip and spin, the power pulses will keep it spinning, hence losing grip. The rider has two choices here: Roll out of the throttle or end up having less acceleration off a corner, and even crash. In today’s world, traction control will interfere to cut the torque to the rear wheel causing the rider to lose acceleration off a corner.

On the other hand, having no power pulse lets the tyre “rest,” allowing it time to grip. Another advantage of this is better tyre life.

Moving forward to the Yamaha R1’s, its inline-four crossplane engine fires at 270°-180°-90°-180°. The firing order has also been changed to 1-3-2-4, instead of the flat-plane’s 1-3-4-2.

We have 4 pistons that are all in a different position from each other. Two pistons are at the beginning of moving downwards, and two pistons are at the beginning of moving upwards.

Piston 1 is at TDC and moves to 90°, while piston 4 is at BDC and moves to 270°. Both these pistons generate a force that is directed upwards (conrod outward movement), but piston 2 is at 270° and moves to TDC, while piston 3 is at 90° and moves to BDC. Both these pistons generate a force that is directed downwards (conrod inward movement).

This means that pistons 1 and 4 are a pair that have a force upwards and pistons 2 and 3 have a force directed downwards. As such, the upward forces are cancelled out by the downward forces. Ultimately, the crossplane crankshaft has no secondary force.

Benefits of the inline-four crossplane engine

With the crossplane crankshaft design, the inertia force (= inertia torque) is reduced to almost zero, apart from a little due to flex and torsion from the crankshaft. So what remains is the ‘pure’ combustion torque. The feeling of the combustion torque is what is meant by throttle feeling. The combustion torque is no longer overruled by the inertia torque with the crossplane crankshaft. This gives the rider the feeling he is directly controlling the rear wheel without any interference, thus improving the ride ability.

In addition to this is the irregular firing order which allows the rear tyre to rest as we mentioned earlier.

This was why Valentino Rossi chose the crossplane engined YZR-M1 when he joined the Yamaha MotoGP team in 2004. To him, it had a smoother throttle response and promoted better rear tyre traction. Remember this was when traction control and certainly aerodynamics were still decades away.

Yamaha then became the first manufacturer to adopt that crankshaft arrangement to a road bike, namely the YZF-R1 in 2009. It continues to be the only inline-four road bike with a crossplane crankshaft.

So, what about CP2 and CP3?

There are two types of parallel-twin crankshaft layouts, initially. Traditionally, the British twins used a 360° layout which the both pistons rose and fall together. Then, it was revised to the 180° twin, which one piston is at TDC while another is at BDC. But the former has a high secondary and primary vibrations, while the latter has high primary vibrations.

So, Yamaha first introduced the TRX850 in 1995 with a parallel-twin engine with a 270° crankshaft, to mimic the firing order of a 90° V-Twin’s.

But somehow, the TRX850 faded away. Not the engine layout, though, because Yamaha revived that format in the MT-07 in 2014, and called it the CP2 (crossplane 2-cylinder).

As for the CP3, as you may have guessed it, it is a three-cylinder engine with a crossplane crankshaft. However, it has to be said that the inline three-cylinder engine is already a crossplane engine, as the crankpins are spaced at 120° to each other rather than being on a flat-plane. It is just a matter of familial continue (and for marketing purposes) that Yamaha calls it the CP3.

So while the CP2 and CP3 are trademarks for Yamaha, the technology is not.

It is now in the middle of the transitional season in Malaysia, bringing sudden thunderstorms and heavy downpours. And as expected, there will be flash floods, like this morning on 15 October 2024.

While it is safest to sit out from riding in pouring rain and flooded roads, there is no escaping it at times, especially around flood-prone areas where the roads remain flooded even after rain has stopped.

Here are our tips for riding through flash floods (and deep puddles of water).

1. Stop and inspect

Treat riding through deep water like like it is adventure riding. No sane adventure rider will just blast headlong into an unknown body of water without first inspecting its depth, potential hazards underwater and exit on the other side.

While you may not have to get off your bike and walk through floods on the road you travel on each day, you do need to stop and look for clues. If there is another vehicle pushing through the water, note how deep it is. Observe if there is a strong water current from one side of the road to the other.

If the water is too deep or current’s too strong, forget it. Just wait for it to subside.

If you do not already know the location of your engine’s air intake, now is the good time to start. Check if it is high enough above the water. (This also applies to car drivers.)

2. Stand Up

Standing up on the footpegs promotes better stability at slow speeds, allowing you to control the bike. It can also keep your head hence eyes above water splashes so you can see where you are going.

3. Go Slow (and straight)

This goes without saying.

Throwing up a big splash may look spectacular in pictures but it is not a good idea in real world situations unless you are riding an enduro motorcycle. Hitting a deep body of water at speed would most turn the water into a liquid brake/barrier. The bike will cut through the first few metres easily before coming to a sudden halt and causing the rider to lose control (or even thrown off).

Keep your speed steady and as low as possibleto keep the water’s bow wake below the height of the engine’s air intake. Remember, you are riding a motorcycle, not a jetski.

It is also best to stay off the sides of the road and ride in the middle of the lane as roads in Malaysia are typically higher in the middle.

4. Keep moving

Do not pull in the clutch or shut the throttle abruptly.

Maintain a steady throttle and speed in the gear you are in right now, even if you should feel a tyre or tyres kicking loose when contacting something in the water. In fact, you should open the throttle a bit more if that happens.

Roll off the throttle smoothly if you need to slow down more and stay off the brakes.

5. Exiting

Do n0t gun it immediately after exiting the flood. You may increase your speed, but do not slam open the throttle, without first giving the time for the water or whatever debris collected on the bike to “drop off.”

Also, with the bike still moving, apply the brakes lightly to clean them.

6. Kill It!

But what if you hit, for example, a pothole and the bike goes down?

Make the effort to kill the engine before you lay the bike down into the water. You would most probably have the time to do so since you were riding at a slow speed, right? Right? Regardless, the engine should be shut down as quickly as possible.

An internal combustion engine is basically an air pump which sucks in air, adds fuel to it, compresses the mixture and sets it alight. But water is incompressible and non-combustible (duh!), and therefore has the potential of causing catastrophic engine damage.

Do not immediately attempt to start a motorcycle that has been lying underwater. Instead, you should pull out the spark plugs and the airbox cover to check for water ingress. If the spark plug electrodes are wet, do not reinstall them, but turn on the bike’s ignition and crank the starter a few times to push the water out of the combustion chamber.

Reinstall only when it is sufficiently dry.

Conclusion

Riding through a flood is n0t difficult but one should do it with care and logic, obviously. Sticking to the above steps will have you home way ahead of car drivers, instead of ending up swimming in that filthy water. Think of it as urban adventure riding.

The motorcycle’s air filter is another oft-neglected component. One can pick any motorcycle of age, open the airbox and find a filter that is totally caked in dust and bugs! And it is amusing to hear the owners lament that their motorcycles have “lost power.”

But then, do you clean the filter or should you get a new one? Personally, we opt to upgrade to an aftermarket filter which can be cleaned multiple times over and offer better air flow.

There are several brands of aftermarket air filters in the market; of some we have tried and discovered that some were good, while some were not so much. But there is one brand we have came to like and trust, called DNA High Performance Filters.

DNA are based in Greece and their filters are of very high quality. Each piece is inspected before being packed and there are models available for almost every motorcycle in the market.

What does the air filter do?

Its task is as essential as it is simple: To filter the intake air before it is inducted into the engine, ensuring that the air free of dust, water, and other objects that will damage the throttle bodies/carburettor, and engine. In saying so, DO NOT operate your motorcycle without an air filter – even race bikes use air filters!

“DO NOT operate your motorcycle without an air filter!”

A clean air filter allows for smooth airflow which in turn results in efficient fuel combustion. The mass airflow (MAF) sensor of EFI-equipped motorcycles sits between the filter and throttle body/bodies and measures the amount of air coming through. The engine’s ECU uses this data to inject the corresponding amount of fuel. Thus, low airflow will cause the incorrect amount of fuel being injected, hence causing a drop in engine performance.

But, the engine’s ECU can only be flexible to a certain degree. So, the insufficient airflow will also cause incomplete fuel combustion, therefore increasing relative fuel consumption.

Also, a blocked filter will cause abrupt throttle response. Air has density, hence momentum i.e. a body at rest tends to stay at rest, while a body that is moving tends to keep moving. As such, you may find that the engine is slow to respond when you first open the throttle, then it suddenly revs up quickly. That is not ideal especially for balancing your throttle input in mid-corner!

Advantages of using an aftermarket air filter

Stock air filters are typically made of foam or paper for particulate filtration.

Sure enough, there are aftermarket filters use the same materials. However, good aftermarket filters such as DNA use oiled cotton as the filter material.

Better Airflow

This is the main advantage over OEM filters is better airflow due to the material. This feature causes many other performance benefits (more on this below). The cotton gauze of a lot of aftermarket filters is highly porous, meaning that it can still block out dirt and other contaminants while allowing maximum airflow.

DNA air filter for Yamaha Y15ZR

Improved Filtration

By using oil on the gauze, the filter is able to catch all of the dirty elements that may harm your engine. In fact, it is generally even more effective at filtering than paper filters.

Better Engine Protection

Thanks to better filtration, aftermarket air filters offer better engine protection than other stock filters. Since the oiled gauze is able to trap and keep out more dirt and dust than paper filters, your engine will be better protected from the damaging effects of these particulates.

Additionally, in environments with a lot of dust, OEM paper and foam filters will generally need to be replaced quickly. They can easily be clogged up with dust and dirt, which blocks air needed to power your engine.

There are foam aftermarket filters for off-road use but these need to be cleaned more often.

Longer filter lifespan

Aftermarket air filters are typically made to last longer than OEM ones. We know how paper responds to water. Similarly, in our experience, foam OEM filters tend to crumble in our humid environment.

Just make sure you or the garage you visit cleans and oils the aftermarket filter at regular intervals.

Performance benefits of aftermarket air filters

We will not mislead you by telling you that fitting an aftermarket air filter will result in an immediate high level of performance gain. Instead, you will need to recalibrate the ECU to fully exploit the benefits. However, there are several small gains from the outset, from our experience.

Horsepower

One of the reasons why riders may choose to upgrade their air filter is to gain more horsepower. However, this benefit is only noticeable when other recalibrations and modifications are made.

Why does an air filter need other modifications? An air filter simply allows maximum airflow into the engine, but it is the ECU which decides to inject how much fuel. More air plus fuel equals more bang.

Still, modern ECUs do have a wide range of mapping programmed in and are able to account for the extra airflow to a certain degree.

On the other hand, DNA offers several “stages” of air filters for motorcycle owners. for example, there is the “normal” Stage 1, Stage 2 and Stage 3 depending on the level of modification and ECU remapping.

DNA air filter for BMW R 1300 GS

Torque

There is no horsepower without torque. Along with the potential for power increase, an advanced air filter will allow for extra oxygen which in turn results in overall better combustion process which increases torque.

Throttle Response

As we mentioned earlier, a smooth flow of air will let then engine breathe easier. You can certainly feel that the engine has softer response when you install an aftermarket air filter, and the engine will rev much quicker when you snap the throttle open. You will also see smoother torque and horsepower curves should you place the bike on a dyno due to this.

Fuel Efficiency

One of the other main benefits of installing an aftermarket air filter is the improvement in fuel efficiency. When filters do not let in enough clean air, engines have to work overtime to compensate for this loss. This leads to excess fuel consumption.

Our experience with DNA saves between 10% to 20% fuel on different motorcycles compared to when using OEM filters.

DNA air filter for Triumph 400 series

THIS IS NOT A PAID ADVERTISEMENT

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