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The Malaysian authorities have finally mandated the fitment of ABS to new motorcycles 150cc and above beginning next year. It is something many quarters including motorcyclists and transportation safety experts have requested for a long time.

However, we need to understand more about what it is and how it works, because there is no point of having the feature without knowing so. In fact, there are many fallacies about ABS that could endanger the rider’s life and limbs instead being useful.

Misconceptions about ABS

Let us start with this before explaining further.

  • “ABS activates whenever I brake”

Not true. ABS only activates if the rider brakes so hard that the wheel is starting to lock up (stop moving). It is only so when the system triggers, not during every facet of braking.

From MCN. Please click on photo for the full story.
  • “ABS helps me stop quicker and in shorter distance.”

Not necessarily. The system does help the bike to stop quicker if one brakes super hard over a dry, grippy surface as the threshold between maximum braking power and the wheel locking up is much higher.

However, maximum braking over a slippery surface may take a little longer as the tyre is more prone to locking up/sliding i.e. hard braking over wet painted road lines. As such, the system activates earlier/easier to let the wheel continue turning, resulting in a longer stopping distance.

  • “ABS prevents me from braking harder.”

Not true. ABS activates because the rider has exceeded the tyre’s available traction, thus he cannot brake harder even without ABS.

  • “ABS adds too much weight.”

This was true with the older systems which weighed 11 kg in 1988. Current systems could weigh as little as 0.7 kg.

  • “I can release the lever and reapply braking quickly if the tyre loses traction.”

True, but no human can match the ABS’s 24 Hz frequency, besides applying the correct amount of brake pressure.

What does ABS do?
  • ABS stands for anti-lock braking system.
  • It avoids the wheel or wheels from locking up (becoming stationary), especially when hard braking is applied whether in panic situations or over slippery surface.
  • Locked wheel/wheels result in loss of control and skidding.
  • Therefore, ABS assists the rider to slow down or stop while in control.
  • Depending on the motorcycle’s speed, the rider can also swerve to avoid the hazard (example: a car pulling out in front of you) because the wheel(s) continue to roll.
ABS vs. no ABS
Advantages of ABS
  • Most effective braking is at the threshold of wheel lock-up. In other words, just when the tyre is about to lose traction and cause the wheel to stop moving.
  • Therefore, with ABS, the rider can brake at maximum pressure without losing control.
  • Prevents wheels from locking up and skidding under heavy braking.
  • The rider can still steer the bike during extreme braking.
  • Better control under hard braking on slippery surfaces.

How does ABS work?
  • A small metallic ring gear is attached to each wheel (for dual-channel ABS).
  • The ring gear is also called tone ring or tone wheel.

  • A magnetic sensor is placed over the tone ring.

  • The resulting electrical pulses from the sensor are sent to the ABS electronic control unit (ECU).
  • The ECU is linked to the ABS pump.
ABS module. The black portion is the ECU
  • There are valves in the pump.
  • The ECU measures the frequency of the pulses from the tone ring.
  • If the ECU senses a dramatic and sudden drop in the pulses, it knows the wheel is about to lock up.
  • When the pulse reaches zero (the wheel has stopped rotating), the ECU will close the valve in the pump to reduce the brake fluid’s hydraulic pressure.
  • The drop in pressure eases the brake pads away from the brake disc.
  • The wheel will rotate again due to the bike’s forward momentum.
  • Brake pressure will resume immediately following the release, as long as the brake lever is pressed.
  • The pressure release/re-application happens up to 24 Hz (24 times per second).
  • The process will continue as long as the brake lever is held down or until the bike stops.
IMPORTANT NOTE TO RIDERS
  • ABS only activates when the wheel(s) start to lock up.
  • The brake lever(s) will pulsate when ABS activates.
  • Do not release the lever(s) when they pulsate if you still need to continue braking.
  • ABS provides the chance to steer or swerve away from the hazard (example: That cat crossing the road), so look away from the hazard to avoid target fixation and STEER!

We have published the Glossary of Motorcycle Terms for the letters A, B, and C, so we continue to the next letter, D.

Dirt Bike:

Also known as the off-road motorcycle. Dirt bikes can be divided into two distinct categories as motocross and enduro. The former is for closed circuit racing only, while the enduro has lights and turnsignals thus can be registered for road use.

Displacement:

The general term for engine capacity. In layman example, it is how much air and fuel mixture is displaced when the piston moves.

DOHC:

Double overhead cam, a camshaft configuration where there are two camshafts that sit in the cylinder head to activate the valves.

Drag bars:

A type of handlebar commonly used in drag racing motorcycles. They are characterized by their short and straight design, providing riders with a specific hand position ideal for maximizing control and aerodynamics during high-speed drag races.

Drag pipes:

Low, short exhaust pipes running along the motorcycle’s frame.

Dresser:

A slang term used to describe certain types of motorcycles designed for long-distance touring and equipped with specific features, including rigid luggage containers. Also known as “Baggers,” Dressers are typically big-bore cruisers that combine comfort, convenience, and storage capacity to cater to riders who enjoy extended rides and touring adventures. Examples are the Honda Gold Wing, Harley-Davidson Electra Glide, BMW K1600.

Dual Density Armor:

The least expensive and most common form of armour in motorcycle riding gear such as jackets, pants, and suits, designed to provide impact protection in vulnerable areas of the body, typically the shoulders, elbows, and knees.

Dual Shocks:

Traditional suspension setup commonly found on motorcycles with two separate shock absorbers, one on each side of the rear wheel, to provide suspension and damping capabilities.

Dual-Purpose:

Also known as a dual-sport motorcycle. Versatile and can be ridden on and off-road. It combines the capabilities of an off-road dirt bike with the necessary features and equipment to be road-legal, allowing riders to enjoy the best of both worlds. Examples are the Honda Africa Twin, Triumph Tiger, BMW R 1300 GS, KTM 1390 Super Adventure, etc.

Dyno:

Short for dynamometer, a device used to measure and analyze a motorcycle’s engine power and torque. Dyno testing provides valuable information about the motorcycle’s performance and helps tuning and optimising the engine.

We had published the Glossary of Motorcycle Terms (A-B) previously, so let us continue with the series, this time for terms beginning with the letter “C.”

Café Racer:

The café racer style of motorcycle originated in the 1960s and is known for its stripped-down appearance, low-slung handlebars, and rear-set footpegs. It is said that they were modified from standard bikes for racing between cafés.

Cage:

Bikers refer to a car as a “cage” since it traps the occupants inside rather being exposed to the environment.

Caliper:

Refer to “Brake Caliper” in the previous article. Anyway, the caliper consists of several other parts including the piston(s) that push the brake pads against the brake disc (a.k.a. rotor).

Camshaft (cam), cam lobes:

A spinning metal shaft with oval cam lobes to open the valves in a four-stroke engine.

cc:

“CC,” written in small letters as “cc” refers to the engine’s displacement in cubic centimetres. It is also the measurement for the amount of fluids.

ci:

CC is a metric measurement, so the imperial measurement is “ci” (cubic inch). It was formerly used by many motorcycle makers, but it is now only limited to Harley-Davidson and Indian Motorcycles. 1 ci = 16.39 cc.

Harley-Davidson’s new Milwaukee-Eight engine, the ninth Big Twin in the company’s history, delivers more power and an improved riding experience while retaining the iconic look, sound and feel of its predecessors. (PRNewsFoto/Harley-Davidson)
Carburetor/Carb:

A carburetor is a mechanical device for mixing air and fuel in the correct ratio for combustion in an internal combustion engine. Virtually all motorcycles are fuel injected these days, apart from a few budget ones that still use the carb.

CE protector:

Also known as CE-certified motorcycle armour, it refers to protective paddings in motorcycle gear. CE stands for Conformité Européene in French, which translates to European Conformity. CE certification ensures the armour meets specific safety requirements and has undergone testing to validate its protective qualities.

Center stand:

Colloquially called the “full stand” here, a center stand is the large, double-legged, fold-out motorcycle stand, mostly found on small cc, adventure, sport-touring, and touring bikes.

Chain drive:

The chain connecting the front small sprocket on the bike’s transmission output shaft to a larger sprocket mounted to the rear wheel hub, to transfer the engine’s torque and power to the rear wheel.

Chassis:

The frame or structure of a motorcycle that act as the central component to where various components such as the engine, suspension, wheels, and bodywork are connected.

Chatter:

Mechanical oscillation or vibration with a bike. Also a term that describes oscillation or vibrations from the tyres.

Chicken strips:

The untouched outer sections of the motorcycle’s tyres, due to lack of cornering angle. “Chicken” here alludes to being less than brave.

Choke:

A mechanism or plate in a carburetor that restricts the airflow during cold engine starting and warm-up. Limiting the air amount of air “enriches” the air-fuel mixture (more fuel). The choke must be deactivated when the engine is sufficiently warm to run smoothly.

Chopper:

A motorcycle with its non-essential parts “chopped” (stripped) to lighten it, making it faster. However, the chopper styling now includes lengthened and raked forks.

Clip-ons:

Motorcycle handlebars clamped around the top of the bike’s fork tubes instead of being bolted to the top triple-clamp. Usually for sportbikes and café racers.

Clutch:

The device that engages and disengages the power transfer from the engine to the transmission. It allows for smooth gears changes plus control of power delivery to the driving wheel.

Compression damping:

Rate the suspension (forks and rear shock) compresses when contacting a bump.

Compression ratio:

In simple terms, it describes how much the fuel-air mixture gets compressed when the engine’s piston rises to its highest point (TDC/top dead centre). The ratio is derived by dividing the cylinder’s volume at the piston’s lowest point in the stroke (BDC/bottom dead centre) to the volume when the piston is at TDC.

Compression release:

Also known as a decompression valve or a decompressor, this mechanism is used to reduce compression pressure for easier starting. It is commonly found in large single-cylinder engines (a.k.a. thumpers).

Counterbalancer:

Also known as a balance shaft, it is mounted in then engine to reduce vibrations and improve engine smoothness, by counteracting vibrations in engines with unevenly spaced cylinders, such as (narrow spaced) V-twins, triples, and parallel-twins.

Countersteer:

Counter-steering is the technique to initiate a turn. It involves briefly steering the handlebars in the opposite direction of the intended turn, causing the motorcycle to lean in the desired direction and initiate the turn. In other words, push left to go left, push right to go right.

Cowl/Cowling:

Also known as the fairing, it is a piece of bodywork to cover certain parts of a motorcycle. It serves multiple purposes, including enhancing the aesthetics of the bike, improving aerodynamics, insulate the rider from wind blast, and protect internal components.

Crash bars:

Engine guards, or frame sliders, are protective bars mounted to a motorcycle’s frame to minimise damage to the motorcycle in the event of a tip-over, low-side, or other types of accidents.

Cruiser:

A style of motorcycle known for its laid-back and relaxed riding posture. It is designed with a comfortable riding position, low seat height, and emphasis on style and aesthetics. Cruisers are often associated with a classic and timeless look.

Did you know that Ducati built a Formula One engine?

Speak of the name “Ducati” and there is no ambiguity to what they build. They have ruled the racetrack for so many years now and their current form in MotoGP has some detractors calling it “The Ducati Cup.” The Italian manufacturer is so proud of their achievements that the CEO Claudio Domenicali rubbished any suggestion of building mopeds and scooters recently.

But yes, they did build a Formula One engine.

Those years

The Italian icon found their calling of building motorcycles after WWII. They were producing radios, parts of radios and even artillery shells prior to that.

But the post-war era was tough on many companies other than those on American soil. Ducati’s factory was bombed to smithereens in 1944. All they had to go on with was Aldo Farinelli’s Cucuiolo (puppy) engine. So, Ducati had to find some money and they did so by trying on almost anything.

The car industry was starting to boom in Italy, so Ducati they put together a car prototype called the DU4 in 1946. It failed and that put the maker out of the automotive business for the next 14 years.

Changing rules in Formula One

In 1960, the deaths of three prominent drivers served as an impetus for the Formula One organisers to force manufacturers to downsize their engine sizes from 2500cc to 1500cc, to curb the speeds of their cars. This change appealed to the legendary Ducati engineer Fabio Taglioni. He went ahead and worked on an engine which he thought may do well in Formula One.

He came up with a 1500cc V8 featuring his signature desmodromic valve actuation (of course). It produced 170 hp, which was a big deal back then.

At the same time, the OSCA-Maserati Formula One team was looking for a new engine. But they had been losing so much money that they could not afford Ducati’s F1 engine. Besides that, other teams have already ironed out their engine supplier and have no place for Ducati.

It was thus that the Ducati F1 engine was never produced in volume. It would have been lost to history had not for their achievements in the motorcycling world.

Yes, the title sounds macabre and perhaps, too direct, but that is the reality of not respecting the risks of motorcycling and taking things for granted.

But, we can reduce some of these risks. On the other hand, we get into trouble because we choose to ignore them. Make a mistake in a car and you could very well survive, but make a mistake, even a small one, on a motorcycle and you are guaranteed to get hurt.

So here are mistakes that we should never make.

1. Riding the wrong motorcycle

Hitting the road on a Kawasaki H2 or anything with 200hp burning in its belly immediately after getting your license is a recipe for disaster. Always start with a bike that is manageable such as a 250cc or no more than 500cc and work your way up.

Even then, do seek out ways to improve your riding (oh, I dunno, by reading more articles?).

2. Riding above your skill level

This is a mistake any rider can make, no matter how new or experienced. New riders are usually rather careful since they’re still getting used to riding. After six months to a year, though, you might think, “I’ve got this,” and kick the pace up a couple of notches. That’s where you have just enough skill to be dangerous. It has a higher propensity to happen especially when you ride among competitive group.

If you find yourself constantly overcooking your corner entrance speed or panicking when a challenge presents itself, it means you need to work on your riding skills.

3. Riding like you are on the track

This can easily happen on your favourite road, thinking you can twist that throttle more and more each time. You should not be pushing the limits that closely anywhere outside a race track anyway.

Tracks do not have any traffic that is not paying attention or expecting you to be there, and hazards, among many other variables. If you want to ride like you are on the track, just go to a trackday. It’s more accessible than you might think, even if you have no interest in racing.

4. Not thinking of the consequences of your actions

Too many riders seem self-absorbed and do many stupid things like running the red light and riding against traffic. We have not even started mentioning riding haphazardly or without regard to their own safety and that of others.

A good rider will think of what would happen if he did this or that. It may sound un-fun but again, what is the point of getting hurt?

And stop listening to your ego that you are already good rider, or worse, better than all others.

5. Having too much faith in other road users

Let us start by saying that there is no sane driver who wakes up in the morning and decides to harm a motorcyclist on purpose. Every road user is another human being, just like you and I. We make mistakes, they make mistakes, so do not take it personal.

And because everyone makes mistakes, do not take your own safety for granted.

Never think that the car ahead would not cut across your front wheel, or if that truck would not pull out of the intersection. While some motorcyclists may feel that takes the “flow” out of their riding because they have to be paranoid, it sure beats being worm food. So, always ride with a sense that others can hurt you, although no sane person wants any trouble.

This writer has been riding motorcycles for nearly 40 years and he can safely tell you that changing the tyres to better ones is the best and immediate performance upgrade.

Bikers always talk about making their motorcycles go faster. It usually involves modifying the engine, changing the exhaust system, replacing stock parts with lighter ones, and even recalibrating or replacing the suspension.

In truth, a new set of good tyres can make all the difference, because your engine may gain 30 extra horsepower, but you are unable to explout this gain because the tyres are crappy.

1. Safety

This goes without saying. An old or bad tyre does not grip as well. It may hop over irregularities in the road, resulting in less grip on less than a completely flat surface. The compound may have already harden also making it less pliable to grip the road’s surface.

More critically, a sub-standard tyre also compromises braking performance which results in instability or worse, loss of traction. On bikes with ABS, you can feel the ABS being triggered prematurely. As such, you will compensate by applying less braking pressure, resulting in increased stopping distance and time.

2. Traction

Good tyres provide the necessary traction to maximize the engine’s power during acceleration and high-speed riding, optimise the brake’s performance, and help the suspension work better in all aspects. It also helps to pick the right type of tyres for the right type of motorcycle and riding, for example, sport-touring tyres when you want to ride your sport-tourer cross border.

3. Handling

This is another obvious advantage. Certain tyres may feel great when they are new, only to keep standing up in corners. A set of good tyres that fits your bike’s characteristics goes a long way in helping your bike steer better at all lean angles.

4. Comfort

An old tyre may have lost its elasticity, causing it to feel hard. Consequently, you can feel every bump it hits, leading to your hands going numb and your body feeling like you wrestled with a bear.

The caveat here is to find the best tyre for your bike and needs. Generally, Bridgestone has the hardest construction, followed by Michelin, then Pirelli, and the supple being Metzeler. It also depends on the type of tyre, for example, sport vs. sport-touring vs. dual-sport.

5. Confidence

A good, new tyre provides the necessary performance when it comes to all aspects of traction including steering feel, cornering feel and traction during braking. These aspects add to your confidence which in turn letting you feel more relaxed when you ride.

Conclusion

So, think about upgrading your tyres first the next time when you want to go faster. Plus, modifying your engine and other components costs a lot more money, will void your warranty (if your bike is still new), and may result in higher maintenance costs.

Good tyres offer a whole lot more and is a better value for your hard-earned money.

Carbon brakes are only used in the top echelons of motorcycle (MotoGP) and automobile racing (Formula One).

But why do only MotoGP bikes use them?

In the beginning

Braking duties began with drum brakes, which gave way to disc brake systems. But these had several limitations including overheating because they are enclosed (despite the efforts of having air inlets), and needed to be adjusted manually as the pads wear. Also, the swingarm’s movements drag the actuation arm along with it i.e. applies the brakes when the rear compresses, and unloads when the rear jacks up.

MV Agusta was the first manufacturer to fit disc brakes to their bikes in 1965, albeit on a small scale, but it was the Honda CB750 in 1969 which popularized the disc brake for road bikes.

The disc brake offers many advantages as is self-adjusting as the pads and disc wear down, it does not  influence the movements of the swingarm; it is self-cooling as the disc(s), caliper(s), and pads are exposed to air flow.

Consequently, brake makers started making them more and more powerful by upgrading the master pump, calipers, discs, and pads. The calipers started from containing a single piston, to two pistons, increasing to four, and even six at one point in time.

As power increased, riders discovered they could brake harder and harder. Likewise, motorcycle manufacturers introduced bikes that went faster and faster. The more aggressive braking did not give the disc enough opportunity to cool sufficiently, especially at the track. This resulted in the disc being warped like a dinner plate i.e. the braking track began to turn outside or inside away from the carrier. When this happens, the pads couldn’t bed themselves completely onto the braking track (where the pads contact the disc). For the rider, the brake lever kept coming backwards towards the handlebar. The disc warp may not be seen with the naked eye, but the effect is there.

Brake manufacturers overcame this by producing better materials for the discs and pads to promote faster cooling. However, bikes continued to get faster and faster, so once again braking power increased and riders braked even later and harder. The lever started coming back to the bar again!

How’s that for a solution creating another problem?

The beginning of carbon brakes

The answer came from the aviation sector. As aircraft grew larger and heavier, they had to land at higher speeds otherwise they would stall. They thus needing more braking power to stop them when they touched down.

Then there was the supersonic Concorde airliner: Its delta wings required higher landing speeds. The kind of forces needed to stop the plane would melt conventional steel brakes.

Hence, Dunlop developed the first carbon-reinforced brake discs and pads in 1969.

Use in competition

Formula One cars were also getting faster and faster, especially after Lotus engineer Colin Chapman discovered the benefits of aerofoils and fitted to the Lotus 49 in 1968. From then on, the cars gained more and more downforce – grip, in other words. Consequently, drivers soon found they were stomping their brake pedals all the way down!

Brabham decided to seek out Dunlop who had developed the brakes for the Concorde, resulting in the first Formula One car to be fitted with carbon brakes in 1976.

As for motorcycles, Wayne Rainey tried them on at the 1988 British GP and was impressed by their performance and went on to win the race. Carbon brakes was here to stay in the 500cc Grand Prix class.

Benefits of carbon brakes

Carbon brakes need heat to work, in other words, heat needs to be generated and stored in the discs for the system to work at its optimum level.

This is in direct opposite to steel or iron discs, which needs to cool down, otherwise continuous heat would soon warp them or even push them into the melting point.

The first carbon brakes needed the riders to apply some pressure on the front brake lever in the first few laps to keep the discs hot. But further research and development has resulted in the materials of today.

The latest system doesn’t require the rider to keep holding on to the bar to warm the brakes up. Instead, the riders only have to perform some hard braking during the Warm Up Lap. The discs will reach their operating temperature of 200 deg Celsius by the start of the race and would continue to work when kept between 200 deg to 800 deg Celsius.

But because they need heat to work, teams would swap them out for the venerable steel discs and sintered pads when racing in the rain. However, this changed when Bradley Smith finished in second place at the San Marino Grand Prix in 2015 with carbon discs and pads despite the rain. Still, it was due to the nature of the track which calls for heavy braking that manages to build up the required heat, whereas certain other tracks do not call for crazy braking.

The new brakes have much higher friction coefficiency and are so powerful that they could slow a bike from 355 km/h down to 90 km/h in less than 300 metres, in less than 5 seconds.

Another benefit of using carbon brakes is the lower unsprung weight hence reduced gyroscopic forces.

So, no wonder they cost USD 20,000 each!

But why aren’t they used in other classes?

Cost, hence the organiser Dorna and FIM decided that is would be best to mandate steel brakes for the other classes to encourage more participation. This is why carbon brakes are used only in MotoGP, while steel is the material in Moto2, Moto3, World Superbike and so forth. They were used in the 250cc class at one time but the Moto2 class has since reverted to steel brakes.

Can I use them on the streets (if one could afford them)?

No, it is too impractical for road use. There will be no way one could keep build up and hold the operating temperature in the discs in dry weather, what more when it rains and during the colder months. The only way to generate enough heat and retain it would be to keep the brake lever pressed at all times. On the other hand, steel brakes on road bikes work between -50 to 600 deg Celsius.

Besides that, the carbon discs last for only about 1000 kilometres.

The current carbon brake systems are all supplied by Brembo who had invested heavily into the technology.

This article was probably best-timed for the first Top Gun film which came out in 1986, but hey, the internet was not born yet. But this author had just rewatched the film (for the millionth time) and felt compelled to write about the original Top Gun bike: Kawasaki GPZ900R Ninja.

Here are 5 interesting stuff you may not know about.

1. 6-year Top Secret Project

Kawasaki needed a bike to succeed the successful and iconic Z1. They needed something that is more powerful than what everyone else had in the market, as well as introduce a fresh design. The motorcycle world had headed into the early 80s by then, which was a decade of excess. Everything had to be more powerful and faster, and on top of that, with groundbreaking design.

Kawasaki worked on the bike over and over. No spyshots existed, especially since there was no internet back then. It stayed in secret better than the Darkstar aircraft.

Finally, it was released in 1984 to global acclaim.

2. The first Ninja

The GPZ900R was the first of Kawasaki’s bikes to wear the “Ninja” name to signify its handling and speed. Since then, all Kawasaki faired sportbikes and even sport-tourers from the ZX-250, to the nighty H2R utilised and utilises the Ninja designation.

3. The first DOHC 16-valve production bike

The engine followed the Z1’s 900cc capacity but it was given a DOHC 16-valve head – the first for a production motorcycle. It had liquid-cooling, too, but it was not the first bike to incorporate that feature.

The new features gave the engine a 115hp peak power output and took the bike to a 243 km/h top speed. That in turn earned the GPz900R Ninja the world’s fastest production bike title and laying down the gauntlet for other manufacturers to beat.

4. Tom Cruise wanted it in Top Gun

Ever noticed that Tom Cruise rides a bike in almost every movie of his? He had been a biker even before Top Gun and the Mission: Impossible series became famous. He knew about the GPZ900R and convinced the producers to include it in the movie which came out 2 years after the bike’s introduction.

5. Produced until 2003

The bike was so successful that it was produced until 1996 for the global market, but production kept going until 2003 for the Japanese market. That was a 17-year production run. Many classic bike aficionados are still seeking the bike.

Closing

The new Top Gun: Maverick movie had Maverick riding the Kawasaki Ninja H2, which is all good since it a continuation of the original Ninja and as the world’s fastest production motorcycle. But you just cannot take away the original Ninja’s clout, just like the first Top Gun movie.

We bikers are not immune to alamak moments too because we are simply human. Here are the Top 5 Alamak Moments for Bikers.

The word “alamak” is a Bahasa Malaysia word which we would utter when something goes wrong. Well, there are other curse words but they are unprintable here, so let us stick to this one. It is in the same vein as “blimey,” “oh crap,” “aiyah,” and many others.

1. The (broken) routine

Long-time riders have the “procedures” of getting for a ride down to a routine. But we sometimes get it all so wrong when there is too much to think about or a hot girl walks by. Or just getting old and senile like me.

It goes like this:

  • Walk outside.
  • Insert key in the ignition.
  • Gloves on.
  • Wait a minute… where is the helmet?
  • Alamak! It is in the house.
  • Remove gloves.
  • Dig into pockets for house keys.
  • Go inside house and grab the helmet.
  • Put helmet on.
  • Alamak! Forgot to put in the earplugs.
  • Never mind, am late already! Ride away like an angry hornet.
  • Realise there is the wind feels kind of er… breezy on your hands.
  • Alamak! Did not put on the gloves. In fact, where are the gloves???
  • Insert the most favourite curse words here.
2. Rain suit on or rain suit off

The Oxford definition of Sod’s Law is: The fact that things tend to happen in just the way that you do not want.

You check the weather app and says sunny all day, but you stuffed the rain suit into the space under the seat, anyway, knowing how fickle our weather is.

Breakfast was good and you are leaving. But the sunshine suddenly goes away as if you are under a full eclipse. You begin to hear patters of rain on the mamak restaurant’s roof. So, you rush out to the bike, remove the seat and pull the rain suit out. You pull on the rain suit, wear the helmet… and the clouds part and the sun comes out.

Ah nevermind, you ride off in the rain suit anyway and the sun began to get hotter and hotter. You are now sweating like an Eskimo in the tropics, wrapped up in clothes looking like a parachutist who missed his landing point and ended up on a motorcycle.

So, you decide to stop and take the rain suit off. Ah, what a relief!

Two kilometres down the road, the rain comes down again… Alamak!

3. The charge/non-charging device

The alarm clock rings and you get up quickly. Hey, it is the day for the big ride. You reach for your phone which you had plugged in all night. 12%. What the… Alamak! The switch was off!

But you dress up anyway. But just before starting the ride, plug the phone in, to be greeted with a the charging tone.

You reach your destination and take the phone out for pictures with your buddies. 5%.

Alamak!

4. The wayward earplug

I do not know about you guys, but I refuse to ride without earplugs. I used to refuse to believe in them until I tried them on and what a difference it makes.

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But… earplugs need to be inserted correctly otherwise they will wiggle their way out of the ear hole sooner or later. And it usually only happens in one ear, especially when you are riding at high speeds. Correcting it needs helmet removal, which follows removing the gloves. So, another alamak moment.

5. Unstrapped chin strap

You are enjoying the ride when you suddenly hear something slapping the side of the helmet. Alamak, you had forgotten to fasten the chin strap. The only way to fix it is to stop the motorcycle, and removing the gloves. Not going to happen when you are in the middle of convoy.

The recent 2025 Ducati Panigale V4’s reveal was kind of a shock for some, especially among the Ducatisti. Gone is the synonymous single-sided swingarm, replaced by a double-sided swingarm.

We have to say that the new swingarm does look the butch, and it is better, engineering wise. Let us examine why.

What does a swingarm do?

The name itself lends to its function of connecting the rear wheel of the motorcycle to the frame via a pivot. So, the rear wheel can move up and down to follow the road’s surface.

Brock’s Performance swingarm https://brocksperformance.com

However, that is not all as the swingarm also needs to be able to withstand several types of forces such as weight (rider, passenger, luggage, road bumps), lateral loads (when the bike is leaned over so much that road bumps now act vertically on the swingarm’s spar/spars), twisting load imparted by the chain.

That is exactly why swingarms on high-powered motorcycles are so much larger than those simple box-section steel type on simpler bikes.

Single-sided swingarm
Pros:
  • Easier Wheel Removal: The single-sided design allows for easier removal of the rear wheel, without upsetting the rear axles alignment, chain tension, and brake pads.

Granted, this setup was first utilised on the Imme 100 in 1948, and the swingarm doubled up as the exhaust. It was later adopted by Moto Guzzi Galletto scooter in 1950. There are still scooters that utilise this arrangement.

However, it was Honda who first used it on a sportbike in the modern age, namely the VFR range which they used for endurance racing.

  • Aesthetics: The great Massimo Tamburini chose a single-sided swingarm design for the iconic Ducati 916 because it looked “like the rear wheel is not connected to the motorcycle and is floating,” and Ducati had thought of racing it in endurance races, too. It was henceforth that top-of-the-line Ducati sportbikes feature the single-sided swingarm, apart from the 999 and now the Panigale V4.

Cons:
  • Strength and Rigidity: Achieving the same level of strength and rigidity as a double-sided swingarm can be more challenging, which results in the need for material.
  • Weight: Hence, they can be heavier than double-sided swingarms.

  • Less flex: Back in the days of the 70s superbikes, engineers had to contend with frames and swingarms that flex too much, making their bikes wallow in corners. So the frames and swingarms got stiffer and stiffer. Then, when they became too stiff, the bikes do not handle well in midcorner. Why? Because the suspension is most effective in absorbing road shocks when the bike is straight up, but that effectiveness goes away when the bike is leaned over.

So, in the engineers began working on frames and swingarms that offer “tuned flex” in the mid-90s. This flex allows the frame and swingarm to absorb road shocks and road surface imperfections while the motorcycle is leaned over, hence provides better grip to the tyres.

And this is exactly why the Ducati Desmosedici GP bike uses a double-sided swingarm, as with the new Panigale V4. In fact, Ducati says that the new V4’s swingarm is 37 percent LESS stiff laterally.

  • Cost: Single-sided swingarms are often more expensive to manufacture and repair due to their complex design and the need for specialised components. Therefore finding application on high-end bikes only.
Double-sided swingarm
Pros:
  • Cost-Effective: Generally, double-sided swingarms are less expensive to produce and repair. They use more conventional design and manufacturing techniques.
  • Strength and Durability: Engineers can tune their stiffness versus flex characters easier as loads are distributed between two spars.

  • Lighter: Less material is needed to make it stiff, thus is can be made lighter versus its single-sided counterpart.
Cons:
  • Wheel Removal: Removing the rear wheel can be more cumbersome compared to a single-sided swingarm, as it will perturb the chain’s tension and alignment.
  • Maintenance Access: Access to the rear wheel and brake components can be more restricted, making maintenance and cleaning more challenging.

  • Adjusting the chain(!): Adjusting the chain and the rear axle’s alignment is a necessary task but it is often time consuming and frustrating. A wrongly adjusted chain will shorten its lifespan, while a misaligned axle results in handling issues.
In a nutshell

Each type of swingarm has its specific use cases and advantages, so the choice between them often depends on personal preference, intended use, and budget considerations.

We have listed the CE standards’ codes for motorcyclists’ Personal Protection Equipment (PPE), so there is also a CE standard for motorcycle gloves.

By the way, “CE” and “EN” mean the same thing: “CE” stands for “Conformite Europeenne” in French, while “EN” stands for “European Norm.”

The CE standard for motorcycle gloves is:

 EN 13594:2015

 

Referring to the sample label above:

  1. The rider on two wheels with a helmet means this PPE is meant for motorcycling. Not for bicycling, driving, or skateboarding.
  2. If this box says “KP,” it means that the glove’s knuckle protector was tested and provides protection for the knuckles. As such, be careful because some gloves with knuckle protectors may not have this “KP” rating.
  3. The digit here pertains to the level of protection provided by the gloves. There are levels 1 and 2, the latter being more protective. Please refer to the box below.
  4. The CE standard and its year of revision.

In order to qualify as Level 1 or 2, the gloves need to pass these test standards:

So, be careful when you buy gloves that seem to be protective but are actually not.

Motorcycle accidents can happen due to the combination of several factors: Road condition, mistakes committed by other drivers, weather, etc. But accidents also happen due to the rider’s own abilities, or lack of, such as target fixation.

Target fixation may not be the main cause of motorcycle accidents but it is the main reason why we cannot avoid accidents.

Good news is, advanced riding schools and teachers have narrowed down the causes of mishaps creating by the rider. You see, we humans have several built-in defence systems called “survival instincts.” There is no doubt that these instincts have kept our forefathers alive until now, but they can be a hindrance to our survival on motorcycles that go up to 300 km/h or more. Ironic.

And yes, one of these survival instincts is “target fixation,” and there are countless videos that show how those accidents could have been easily avoided if not because of target fixation.

What is target fixation?

The instinct originates in our brains telling us to keep an eye on a dangerous situation or hazard. While it worked well against predators, it unfortunately becomes a bane when we ride motorcycles that travel at much faster speeds. And, the strength of the instinct increases as you increase speed.

Have you entered a corner a little faster only to find your vision locked onto the outside of the corner instead through it? Or a car pulled out of the junction right in front of you and could only stare at it, wishing that it went away? Or you saw a pothole in the middle of the road and still proceeded to hit it although the hole is only 0.5 metre wide, while the road is 8 metres wide?

Or, just the like in the video below. The motorcycle rider had the entire lane, plus the adjacent lane to himself, yet he ran into those hapless cyclists.

All those issues were caused by your brain telling you to fixate (lock) your vision on the danger, hence, target fixation.

So, how do we fix it?

Like many bad habits, we can train our brain to overcome them, target fixation included. We only need to practice: You do not need to mount those expensive tyres, suspension, etc.

Keep these points in mind:

  1. The motorcycle goes where we look.
  2. Ride with a wide field of view – do not let your vision tunnel down.
  3. A wide field of view lets you open up the road in front of you, thereby creating more space.
  4. With that wide view, look to the sides of the hazard when you spot one.
  5. Steer the motorcycle away from the hazard.

Practice

  1. Find an open road with no traffic. Better yet, a large parking spot.
  2. Start with 40 km/h. Look up and look wide.
  3. Imagine a pothole or any hazard ahead of you (how far ahead depends on your speed).
  4. Look to the either side i.e. left or right of it.
  5. Then steer to either the side. Keep practicing until it becomes a habit, and your muscles will follow suit (muscle memory).
  6. Add 10 km/h at a time and keep practicing.

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